Volume II, Issue 6, Page 17

Now we are getting somewhere!


The 4340 4.5" stroke crankshaft has been laid in the block so we can check crank to block clearance.

This is the Ohio Crankshaft 540" Mopar Stroker Kit. JE Pistons, OCC steel rods w/ARP2000 bolts, Federal Mogul rod and main bearings, tool steel pins, double Spira-Lok pin retainers and Total Seal ring package. Internally balanced and ready to go. Racer Net price of $2195.00 is a solid value. (last summer I paid $1475.00 for a crankshaft alone for my other engine! I should have called Ohio Crankshaft!)

The Chenoweth Girdle layed in place over a light coat of silicone, ready to be torqued down to 70 ft. lbs with LocTite on the threads. The kit comes with longer than stock oil pan studs all fasteners and shims you will need. An excellent way to beef up the lower end of your stock 440 block.

This month you will see some progress on the Project 540/E85 Engine and get some up to date information on the new Edelbrock Victor Cylinder Heads. The short-block is almost together and should be in the chassis by the next issue of MOPARMAX.com.

Here is our status and what we have accomplished on the engine this month. We are also working on assembling the S&W Race Cars swing-arm dragster chassis as well. We are at it for a couple hours every night and while it seems we are getting nowhere fast, it is taking shape pretty well.

I’ll start this month with installing the Ohio Crankshaft 540” rotating assembly into the Chenoweth Machine prepped 440 block. Last month I covered that cleaning a block is a several hour process, at least it should be if you want it as clean as it needs to be. We are ready to assemble as we scrubbed and scrubbed again last month. We opened up all the Ohio Crankshaft boxes and made sure we had everything we were supposed to have. We are using a Chenoweth Block Girdle Kit and it comes with all the required ARP hardware.

The first thing we had to do was install the ARP main studs. They only need to be finger-tight in the block, do not over tighten these as it will affect the final torque readings. The crankshaft looked great and was ready to install after a quick “bath” and blow dry. The rods took an hour or so to get “ready”. ARP suggests you run the rod bolts in and out several times to about 60% of torque value to get the rod and the bolt threads “friendly” with each other. This will make for more even and predictable stretch and torque readings. Be sure to coat the threads with ARP Assembly Lube before you start. I installed the rod bolts for the last time and did so with the bearings installed. I measured the inside diameter of the bearings and then put a micrometer on the rod journals and subtracted the difference of the measurements. We have .0022 to .0026 rod bearing clearance, right where I like it since we will run 40wt synthetic race oil after break-in with 10-30 oil. The same procedure is done for the main bearings. Install the bearings, torque the main bolts down (remember the ARP lube!) measure the inside diameter and then “mike” the main journals on the crank. We have .002 on all of them so they are good to go.

Here's What's New!